KOSTAS and the yummy world

Rhodos in 1487.

The Order of Knights of the Hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem, was a medieval Christian military order. It was headquartered variously in the Kingdom of Jerusalem, on Rhodos, in Malta, and is now headquartered in Rome. 

The Hospitallers, dedicated to John the Baptist, founded around 1023 by Gerard Thom to provide care for pilgrims coming to the Holy Land.

After the conquest of Jerusalem in 1099 during the First Crusade, the organisation became a religious and military order under its own Papal charter, charged with the care and defense of the Holy Land. 

After the fall of the Kingdom of Jerusalem in 1291, the order sought refuge in the Kingdom of Cyprus. Finding themselves becoming enmeshed in Cypriot politics, they created a plan of acquiring their own temporal domain, selecting Rhodos to be their new home. In 1310,  the city of Rhodos surrendered to the knights.

On Rhodos, the Hospitallers (now named the Knights of Rhodos) were forced to become a more militarised force, fighting especially with the Barbary pirates. They withstood two invasions in the 15th century, one by the Sultan of Egypt in 1444 and another by the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror in 1480.

❤Having been driven out of the Holy Land, the Hospitaller Knights of Jerusalem, led by the Grand Master Fulk de Villaret, went to Rhodos via Cyprus in 1309, occupying the island for over 200 years before the Turks expelled them.

The Knights built ramparts, churches and a great castle. This legacy of military glory appealed especially to Mussolini, who, in the course of a three-decade Italian occupation, completely restored the Old Town and landscaped it with brilliant gardens.

The italian reconstruction wasn't always accurate, and was sometimes heavy-handed, but no matter. The result is right out of Hollywood: the most spectacular array of Crusader remains in all of the Levant, including four kilometers of robust fortifications, which even today amaze the visitor of its size and advanced military architecture.

An Illustrated History of the Order of St John, the Knights Hospitaller, by Giacomo BOSIO. Published in Paris in 1659.

The terreplein of England.

When the Knights arrived to the island, started continuous works on the fortifications, both to include the new villages in the south of the historical Byzantine town and to update the fortification to the new military defensive techniques after the artillery started to be used as a siege means.

The expansion of the walls was undertaken by Grand Master Antonio Fluvian de Riviere who allowed the town of Rhodos to reach the current area of about 42 hectares. The walls finished in1465. The Byzantine fortifications were demolished leaving just a portion of those of the old fort known at that time as Kollakio.💔

What we most admire today in the Old City is its spectacular fortification.

❤Notwithstanding what most people think, the town was fortified with big walls long before the Knights arrived on the island. 

During the Hellenistic period (late 4th cent. BC), the town of Rhodos was already enclosed in defensive walls which allowed it to withstand the siege of Demetrius Poliorketes, in 305 BC.  The earthquake of 226 BC severely damaged the fortifications, but they were soon rebuilt. The Byzantines built a fortress on the highest part of the town (Kollakio).

Old Town north-west part of the walls.

Gate d’Amboise fortification.

Start your day with a morning coffee at the Yachting Club café at Neorion Square and enjoy the views of the New Market, the Mandraki Port and the moored boats.

You need good trekking shoes to walk in the cobbled streets of Old Town, especially in winter wet months when streets can be very slippery.  You should also be prepared that all shops (there are 2-3 exceptions) are closed and it is difficult to find a place to dine or have a drink. 

The Medieval Rose is a cultural organisation that was founded in 2005 in order to establish, organise and run the Medieval Festival οf Rhodes during which the history, the traditions and legends of Medieval Rhodes are recreated through happenings, workshops and games. The 1st Medieval Fair realised in 2006, and since then it is organised on a regular annual basis.  www.medievalfestival.gr/Eng/

The fauna of Yachting Club café in a rainy day.

In order to better manage the tour of the Old Town, I decided to divide my long walk into three sections.  Every one of these sections roughly follows the old Ottoman division of the walled town:

a) Kollakion, which is the northern part of the town, bounded by Sokratous Street to the South. South of Kollakion is the part of the town called Chora and which is divided into two parts the Turkish and the Jewish quarters.

b) The Turkish quarter, which is the south-west part of the town, bounded by Sokratous Street to the north and Perikleous street to the east, and

c) The Jewish quarter, which is the easternmost part of the town.  This is the smallest part of the Old Town bounded by Perikleous street to the west and Akti Sachtouri to the north.   

Enter the walled city from “Eleftherias Gate” (Liberty Gate-Πύλη Ελευθερίας). 

The Gate was opened by the Italians in 1924, who portrayed themselves as liberators of the island from the Ottoman rule. 

The Gate allows the connection between the Kolona and Mandraki ports (harbors). Although it is a modern gate, it was built respecting the architectural style of the medieval gates. 

The Tarsana Gate (Arsenal Gate) and the “Kolona Harbor” just behind it.

“Eleftherias Gate” (Liberty Gate).

Having passed the Gate, you find yourself at “Simis Square” from where (on your left) you can take a glimpse of the “Kolona Harbor” ("Fishing Harbor") thru the "Tarsana Gate" (Arsenal Gate-Πύλη Ταρσανά).

This Gate was built during the 14th century by the Grand Master Juan Fernandez de Heredia, whose coat of arms stands on top of the gate.  In 1908 the Ottoman administration demolished the side towers to widen the access road to the Kolona Harbor. Today thanks to the direct connection with the Liberty Gate it allows a fast flow of vehicles between the Kolona Harbor and the New Town.

The “Municipal Museum of Modern Greek Art”

“Argyrokastrou Square” with the fine fountain in its center.

The Fountain at Argyrokastrou square.

Continue, under an arch, and come out in front of the church of  “Our Lady of the Castle” (“Panagia tou Kastrou”), which was the Knights' Cathedral.

❤The original core of the building was probably erected in the 11th century and belonged to the type of cruciform domed temple. This architecture phase is evident to the genesis of some vaults.

After the conquest of Rhodos by the Knights, the Byzantine church was reconstructed and took the form of three-aisled Gothic basilica with transept. The coats of arms of the Grand Master Helion de Villeneuve and Pope John XXII saved in the central pointed arch window.

The east side of the church is adjacent to the sea fortifications and shaped externally in a rectangular tower with battlements. On the west side, above the main entrance door, exists a large rectangular frame, which used to host a (now lost) painting composition of the Virgin Mary among saints and knights.

During the Turkish occupation, the church was converted into a mosque (“Enteroum Mosque”). A minaret and a mihrab were added, while the white-washing of the walls caused the destruction of the wall-paintings. The additions of the Ottoman era were removed during the Italian occupation.

The decoration of the interior is no longer preserved with the exception of some fragmentary parts of the wall-paintings, representing the Holy Mother of God and four other saints. The best preserved among them is the figure of St. Lucia dated to the 14th century.  

Since 1988 the church houses an exhibition of Byzantine and post-Byzantine painting, including portable icons of the 17th and 18th centuries and wall-paintings detached from the church of St. Zacharias at Chalki Island (14th century) and from the monastery of the Archangel Michael at Tharri of Rhodos (17th century). The collection also includes a group of architectural members and mosaics of the Early Christian period.💔 

During our visit the church was closed: unfortunately, this is a common situation throughout Greece during the winter months.

Right after the Church is "Mousiou Sq." (Museum sq.), with the “Inn of the Tongue of England” on the left and the “Hospital of St. John” on the right.  

The Inn of the Tongue of England is on the corner of the Square and an alley running down to “Arnaldo Gate”, which used to give direct access to the Hospital from the sea.  The building was re-constructed in 1919 in its original position and in the same style as the old structure, which dated from 1443 and was destroyed in the mid-19th century.  Today the Inn houses the National bank of Greece. 

The construction of the “Hospital of Saint John” began in 1440 and was completed in 1489. This huge building today houses the “Archaelogical Museum”.

Continue for some meters (along Apellou str) to see the small but picturesque “Argyrokastrou Square”, opposite of which stands the “Auberge of the Langue of Auvergne”, build in 1507.

Note the outside staircase leading up the front of the building which is a purely Aegean architectural feature, owing nothing to Western influence. The auberge is used today as government offices. 

Note: A "langue" (tongue) was an administrative division of the Knights Hospitaller between 1319 and 1798. The term referred to a rough ethno-linguistic division of the geographical distribution of the Order's members and possessions.  The headquarters of each langue was known as an "auberge", a French word meaning "inn". Auvergne is aν historic province in south central France with its distinctive variety of the Occitan language (Auvergnat).

Argyrokastrou sq. also boasts one of the oldest buildings in the Castle, the "Armeria", built in the 14th century, probably by Grand Master Roger de Pias.  

Its similarities to the Hospital of St John lead scholars to believe that this was the first building used as a Hospital. Later, it was used by the Turks as an armory (armeria). To the left as we look at the Armeria, which today houses the Institute of History and Archaeology, is the "Museum of Folk Art".

The underpass connecting “Argyrokastrou Square” and “Mousiou Square”.

“Our Lady of the Castle” (“Panagia tou Kastrou”) church.

“Our Lady of the Castle”.

The entrance of the “Archaelogical Museum”.

The courtyard of the “Archaelogical Museum”.

The “Street of the Knights” ("Odos Ippoton") is one of the most famous landmark in Rhodos.  It is a 300 meters (more or less) long, well preserved cobble paved street.  Following an almost exact east to west direction, uses part of an ancient straight road that connected the port with the Acropolis of Rhodos. The street is slightly uphill, fully reconstructed by the Italians and connects the “Palace of the Grand Master” (also known as Castello), with the former hospital of Saint John.

Visitors enter the building by way of the main entrance on the east side and find themselves in a large interior courtyard surrounded by vaulted porticoes, on the architectural model of the Byzantine inn. In front of the colonnade of the west portico stands a late Hellenistic tombstone in the form of a lion with the head of a bull between its front paws.  The museum houses interesting collections not only from the island of Rhodos, but also from neighboring islands. 

The “Street of the Knights” seen from the east side.

The “Street of the Knights” seen from the west side (from the Lodge, looking downhill).

❤Judging by descriptions, the inns were used for the meetings of the members of a langue, a kind of a club.  The knights could meet each other there, have dinner together and discuss their daily affairs. 

They did not live in the inns, but noble travelers, pilgrims or refugees could stay there.  These guests were usually settled according to their nationality, with the French staying at the inn of France and so on.💔

As you enter the "Street of the Knights", the first building on your left is the north side of the Hospital. To the right, a medieval building houses the Tourist Information Office.  This is followed by another building and next to that is a small palace ("Mikro Palati") bearing the coats-of-arms of the French Masters Aimerie d' Amboise and Villiers d' Isle Adam. Although it cannot be verified with any certainty, it seems that this was the residence of Villiers, the Master who defended Rhodos during the Turkish siege in 1522 and was entrusted with the grim duty of handing over the city to the Turks. 

Along the street, seven (five to be precise, since the “Auberge of the Langue of Auvergne” and the "Auberge of the Langue of England" are located elsewhere, as we have already seen) imposing "inns" (auberges) where constructed during the Knights era, representing the seven countries and languages (tongues), that the Knights of the Order of St John were originated from: Auvergne, Provence, France, Aragon (Spain), Germany, England and Italy.

Each facade is decorated with emblems and details that reflect the respective country. Most of the Grand Masters were French, so their influence on the architecture was considerable. Stonemasons and craftsmen were for the most part Greek but workers from France and Spain were also brought here. The Italians in 1916 carried extended renovations and removed all Ottoman architectural elements (e.g. wooden balconies) to give to the street the 15th century style, which we see today.  

The "Odos Ippoton" is crisscrossed with beautiful alleys.

The Turkish fountain inside a courtyard in Odos Ippoton.

“Auberge de France”.

Almost opposite the garden stands the finest, with no doubt, and largest of all inns, the “Auberge de France” which was built between 1492 and 1503.    

The Façade is decorated with several coats of arms of the different masters or dignitaries.  The gargoyles on the roof of the building resemble crocodiles: the story goes that the Grand Master Dieudonne de Gozon killed a crocodile which escaped from an Egyptian ship moored at the port and was terrifying the inhabitants of the island.   

The Inn was bought in 1911 by France’s ambassador to Turkey, Maurice Bombard, who restored it at his own expense and donated it to the State of France. 

The Inn today houses the Consulate of France.  If you find it open, visit the exhibitions on the 1st floor and the gardens of this beautiful mansion.

The facade of the Church of the Holy Trinity.

Picture of "HolyTrinity" church (late 19th/early 20th c.) before the Italian restoration of the Odos Ippoton.  The stairs lead to the empty niche where today stands the Virgin and Child statue.

Next to the “Auberge de France” stands the "Church of the Holy Trinity" ("Aghia Triada") with a statue of the Virgin and Child in a niche of its facade.  This single-nave chapel, which according to written sources, was dedicated to St. Michael, was built  sometime between 1360 and 1380.

❤The prevalence of the Coat of Arms of the Tongue of England is one of several features suggesting that this church used to pertain the order of the English Knights.  During the 15th c. it seems to have been transferred to the tongue of France. Also visible on the marble frontispiece at the church’s entrance are the blazons of two of the most prominent Grand Masters in the history of the Order of St. John, namely Hélion de Villeneuve and Dieudonné de Gozon, along with the coat of arms of the Order.

The name given to this church today was inspired by the Holy Trinity frescoes decorating its interior. There have been more than one attempts over time, to interpret the absence of the depiction of the Holy Spirit from such frescoes. These frescoes are estimated to have been created sometime between late 15th and early 16th century.

The dome is also a later addition, assumedly during the Ottoman rule, at a time when the chapel was used as a mosque, under the name of Khan Zade Mescidi.💔

Just after the Holy Trinity stands the “Auberge d’ Italie”, which was built by the Italian Grand Master Fabrizio del Carretto.

After this, an arch (with a room above it) is the entry to an alley at right angles to the Street of the Knights. We pass this, and immediately to our right is the "Inn of the Tongue of Province", with the “Inn of the Tongue of Spain” (Aragon and Castile) to the left, which is one of the largest inns. The room above the archway belongs to this inn. Both inns were built at the beginning of the 15th century and neither is notable for any particular exterior decoration. 

Shortly after these buildings, which are the last two inns in the "Odos Ippoton", a large Gothic loggia provides a monumental end to the street. 

This is the “Saint John Lodge”, which connected the church of "St. John" to the "Palace of the Grand Master". The loggia rebuilt by the Italians.

❤The church of "St. John", which was built in the early 14th century, was the official church of the Order. After the Ottoman occupation of the island, it was converted into a mosque and was in use till the explosion of 1856, which was caused most probably by a bolt of lightning that struck the minaret and ignited the gunpowder stored in its cellars. The explosion destroyed the church, the loggia and part of the abandoned Palace. I do not know why the Italians did not rebuilt it, as they did with the loggia and the Palace. Instead, they built a replica of it at Mandraki port, which is today the "Church of the Annunciation".💔 

The “Auberge d’ Italie” (on the right) and the Spanish arch.

“Saint John Lodge”.  Today, restored (top) and in a 19th c. gravure after an explosion which destroyed it (bottom).

A 1844 gravure of the Palace.

The main entrance is in the south facade, flanked by two imposing cylindrical towers. The west facade is pierced by a gate, in front of which rises a tall, square tower (overlooking the Gate d'Amboise).

❤On the north side there are underground rooms that served as storerooms; and it was probably in these that the civilian population took refuge in the event of an enemy attack. The ground floor was occupied by small and large vaulted rooms, set around the square courtyard, which were used as secondary rooms.

During the Italian rule of Rhodos, the Italian architect Vittorio Mesturino restored the damaged parts of the palace between 1937 and 1940.  

On the first floor were various official rooms, such as the Great Council Chamber and the dining room, as well as the private quarters of the Grand Master, which were commonly known as Margaritae.

During the period of Italian rule, a chapel was built to the right of the monumental marble staircase leading up to the first floor. In it, erected a bronze statue of Saint Nicholas, a copy of the work of that name by Donatello, in Bari. Floor mosaics of late Hellenistic, Roman and Early Christian times have been laid in many of the rooms on the first floor, most of them taken from buildings of Kos island.💔

The main entrance of the Palace at the south facade, flanked by two imposing towers.

The courtyard of the Palace.

A furnished room on the 1st floor of the Palace.

As you leave the Palace, Kleovoulou Square (Πλατεία Κλεόβουλου) lies to your right, and beyond this, after passing under an arcade, you enter a wide street with tall trees and gardens.  

This is Orpheos street, a street full of restaurants. The restaurants in Orpheus str. cater mainly for the tourists.  Only one of the restaurants was open during our winter visit: Venus Restaurant (Αφροδίτη), just opposite the Clock tower.  

The most famous restaurant in the area is the “Mama Sofia”, overlooking the Mosque of Süleyman.  Mama Sofia with her Husband Sotiris (today, together with their sons and their grandchildren) has been feeding travelers quality Greek cuisine since 1967.  The presentation and homely service is first class.   

: www.mamasofia.gr

“Gate D’Amboise”.

D’Amboise Gate is definitely one of the most remarkable gates, from a military perspective, in the medieval town of Rhodos. It was built by Grand Master Emery D’Amboise in 1512. The gate was fortified with two impressive round towers to protect the city from the Ottomans.

Even if the enemies did manage to enter this gate, they still couldn’t access the town. Knights modified the wall's structure so that there were three more gates (the last one of which is St Antony’s Gate) to pass in order to enter the town. This system of gates, the Ottomans call Egri Kapi (Twisted Gate). 

St Antony’s Gate. The relief portraying St Antony (upper inlet) and the part of the Gate seen from inside the castle (lower inlet).

Souvenirs of the gardens at Orpheus street.

To the northern end of Orpheus street stands the "Gate of St. Anthony".   

After passing through St Antony’s Gate, there is an elevated wide alley lined with big plane trees, where during the summer months artists draw caricatures of tourists.  This alley leads to two smaller gates and after those you see the impressive "Gate d'Amboise". 

St Anthony's Gate was the old western gate of Rhodos, but with the redesign of the walls it became part of the "Gate d'Amboise's complex", which comprises four gates.

The Clock Tower.

Next to the Clock Tower is the "Mosque of Suleiman" (Suleymaniye Mosque), standing in a beautiful courtyard.  

The present edifice was built in 1808 and replaced the first mosque built in the Town of Rhodos, which erected in honor of the conqueror of Rhodes (Suleiman the Magnificent).  

The building is distinguished by its rose-pink plaster and the blue pillars of the porch.  The pillars of the outer arcade belonged to the Christian church of Holy Apostles. It continues to operate as a mosque, today.

Mosque of Suleiman.

The "Muslim Library", founded by Hafiz Ahmed Agha in 1794, is just opposite the Mosque of Suleiman.  Presently, there are 1256 manuscripts in the possession of the library in the Turkish, Arab and Persian languages.

Among the most valuables exhibits is a 1540 beautifully illustrated copy of the Quran, a 1522 chronicle of the Turkish siege of the city, and several manuscripts with Persian miniatures. On the walls hang old maps and engravings of the town.

The "Muslim Library".

Street in the turkish quarter.

The “Sultan Mustafa Mosque”.

From the Muslim library head south.   Ippodamou street, which is the street that ends to the “Gate of St. Athanasios”, takes you straight into the heart of the old Turkish Quarter of Chora (or “Chorio” or “Burgo”), that has lost almost nothing of its medieval color.   

The alleys and the houses of the Turkish quarter are very much as they were in the time of the Knights.  The arches, beneath which the road passes every now and then, were added by the Turks to provide protection against earthquakes, a rather often phenomenon in this part of the Aegean.  To the right of the street you see the “Church of St. Paraskevi” (Ναός Αγίας Παρασκευής), which is one of the most sizeable churges in old town.  The church was built in the late 15th c. and later, during the years of the Turkish rule, converted to a mosque (“Takkeci Cami”).

The first street to the left, just after the church, is Archelaou street, which leads to Arionos square. 

The square (and the streets around it) is full of bars and restaurants, which were all closed during our visit.   

The “Sultan Mustafa Mosque” is situated on the south of the square, within steps from the “Public Baths” (Yeni Hamam).  The Mosque is an ochre colored building, which continuous to function as a mosque and actually is the site for the celebration of weddings amongst members of the island’s Muslim community. The name and the year of construction of the building are provided by the inscription featured above the main entrance, reading “Benefactor Sultan Mustafa the III, son of the Victorious Sultan Ahmed, son of the Victorious Mehmet, 1178” (that is 1764 under the Christian calendar).

The Turkish Public Baths (hamam) in Old Town.

The entrance of the "Yeni Hamam".

Continue to the lane that runs down from Arionos sq. between the mosque and the baths to the outdoor "Theater of the Old City" (Folk Dances Theater), where performances of folk dancing were taking place during the summer months.

Today, the place is shut down and thick vegetation has covered everything.    

At the entrance of the folk dance theater turn right and continue south.  Pass between the churches of “St. Nikolas” and “St. Vernardos” and follow Omirou street till you reach the “Chruch of St.Athanasios” (Ναός Αγίου Αθανασίου) and the fortifications of the Gate bearing the same name.

Although the architectural features and the blazons embedded in various parts of the construction (namely those of the Order of St. John and of Grand Master Fabrizio del Carretto) suggest the St. Athanasios church to be dating from the 16th century, there is historic evidence of the existence of an even earlier church on this very site. 

During the Ottoman rule, the church was converted into a mosque under the name of “Babi Mesdud”, meaning “the Mosque of the Closed Gate”.

The “Gate of Saint Atnanasios” is a gate elaborated with two towers: the "Tower of St.Mary" and the "Tower of St. Athanasios" and located between the "Terreplein of Spain" and the "Terreplein of England".

The Gate of Saint Athanasios was built between 1441 and 1442. It is also known to locals as "Saint Francis Gate" since the "church of Saint Francis of Assisi", built by the Italians, is located outside the gate.

The round tower of "Saint Mary" that controlled the entrance to the gate was built in 1441 by the Grand Master Jean de Lastic.

The "Tower of St. Athanasios".

At this point, you can divert from your tour in the Old Town and exit from Saint Athanasios Gate to visit “St Francis (of Assisi) Church”

Launched in 1936, under the Italian rule of the island, construction works on this church were brought to completion three years later. It continues to this day to function as the official parish church of the Roman Catholic Church of Rhodos.

One of the features worth noting about this church is the larger-than-life statue of St. Francis, standing in the outside area of the church as well as the recently refurbished belfry, from the top of which the views over the city and beyond are simply stunning.

The entrance to the "Theater of the Old City" in the background.

The “Chruch of St.Athanasios”.

The “Gate of Saint Atnanasios” seen from the moat.

According to Turkish narrative the troops of the conqueror Suleiman the Magnificent entered Rhodos through this gate.

The gate was closed by the sultan who wished to avoid that any other conqueror could pass after him.

It was re-opened by the Italians in 1922 during the 400th anniversary of the conquest of Rhodos by the Ottomans.

The "Church of Saint Francis of Assisi", built by the Italians, located outside the gate of Saint Athanasios.

Agiou Fanouriou str.

Pass by the church and turn right at Akousilaou str. and into Dorieos square. 

The square is dominated by the abandoned “Redzep Pasha Mosque”.  This mosque was built in 1588 (as the inscripton right above its entrance suggests), using materials from Byzantine and Order times, and was, in its days, the finest mosque on the island.

Its ablution fountain stands in front of it, and behind, in an archway with a vaulted roof, is the sarcophagus of Redzep Pasha himself.

Back inside the walled city. Take the street by the side of St. Athanasios church which continues behind it and walk along the walls till you reach Agiou Fanouriou str. Agiou Fanouriou str. is one of the most picturesque streets in the Old Town.

Continue on the same street till you reach the church bearing the same name, the small Byzantine"Church of St. Fanourios"(patron saint of those searching for lost persons or things). The Turks used the church first as stables and later as a mosque (“Peyal Mescit Cami”). Some fine wall-paintings have been preserved under the Turkish plaster on the walls.

The "Redzep Pasha Mosque”.

The Redzep Pasha mosque is not the most interesting feature of the square. 

After having walked long in a deserted, rainy city with no open cafés or restaurants, the sound of 70s songs filling the square made us wonder if we were dreaming…. what we were experiencing was an acoustic “mirage”? 

We decided to trace the source of the music, you know by moving our ears back and forth, just like dogs do, and we realized it was coming from a multicolored restaurant/bar called “The Walk Inn”. 

The “The Walk Inn” restaurant.

To tell you the truth, we did not have great expectations.  Besides, till that time we believed it was our destiny to have no food at all that day! 

We entered a semi-dark small room with 4-5 tables, pictures of pop-stars hanging on the walls and several cats strolling around.  An old man was sitting at the bar having a beer and a short, restless, young man was moving behind the bar.  There was only one other couple sitting at the darkest corner of the room, having lunch. 

We ordered burgers (we were also offered the choice of having pizza) at the price of 6 euros each!  The low price made us suspicious, so you cannot imagine our delight when the burgers arrived and we had the first bite.  Just superb. 

The “The Walk Inn” restaurant.

The “Holy Trinity” church.

Article in "Il messaggero di Rodi" on July 23, 1944.   (Picture from "Jewish Museum of Rhodes" archives).

The "Knights Hospice of St. Catherine".

In 1944 the east part of Hospice was destroyed by Allied bombing, along with many other buildings in the heart of the Jewish quarter. 

In the following years, the surviving part stood forlorn in the deserted neighborhood.  It was occupied by poor immigrants from neighboring islands until 1986, in slum conditions. 

The monument restored in the years 1989-1997 by the Ministry of Culture. 

You can enter the building (free of charge) during the summer months.

You turn back to the Evreon Martyron street and walk westwards, pass under two arcades and by many souvenir shops (all closed during our visit) to reach the remains of the 14th century Gothic church of "The Virgin of the Burgh" (Our Lady of the City - Saint Marie du Burg).  The church was the largest Catholic church in Rhodos (30 meters by 18).

❤Built sometime during the rule of the Grand Master Villeneuve (1319-1346), the construction was later, during the Knights era, to be endowed with six chapels and some seven vaulted tombs, encrusted within the northern wall of the church. During the Italian rule, restoration works were launched, freeing the original site, through the expropriation and razing of various homes allowed therein in the previous century.💔

The beautifully restored “Knights Hospice of St. Catherine” dominates the area. 

The Hospice is a two-storey guesthouse built in 1391-92, under Grand master Heredia, by the Italian Domenico d’Allemagna, admiral of the Order.  The Hospice, exclusively intended for eminent guests of the Order, was already in use in 1394 when traveler Niccole di Martoni described it as “beautiful and splendid, with many handsome rooms containing many and good beds”. 

The building was apparently destroyed in the siege of 1480 and the earthquake of 1481.  Its rebuilding, as testified by the heraldry on the west façade, was completed in 1516. 

The entrance of "Knights Hospice of St. Catherine", at Thiseos Str.

"The Virgin of the Burgh".

Just opposite the "The Virgin of the Burgh" you can take a glimpse of the port thru the “Gate of the Virgin”, namely the two towers standing at its entrance: Naillac and Windmills towers.

This Gate is a modern gate, envisaged in the town master plan by the Italian administration to allow vehicle traffic, but opened only in 1955 by the Greek administration.  

The “Gate of the Virgin” seen from "The Virgin of the Burgh" church (top), and the view of "Naillac Tower" and "Windmills Tower" thru it (bottom).

Continue your walk towards the same direction and after some meters you arrive at the “Square of the Hebrew Martyrs” (Platia Evreon Martiron), with its attractive little fountain, decorated with rows of shells, starfish, octopuses and other sea creatures, set on blue tiles and coronated by three large metallic sea-horses.

The square named in the memory of the approximately 2000 Jews, who were assembled here before being shipped to Nazi concentration camps, from which only a very few of them ever returned.

The square and the surrounding streets are full of shops and restaurants during high season.

“Square of the Hebrew Martyrs”.

The building whose front is on the north side of the square is the “Palace of the Admirals” or "Admiralty", dating from the 15th century.  The construction time has been suggested on the basis of a reference by Rottiers, a famous traveler of his time, who did mention the presence of a blazon (still seen today)  of Grand Master Pierre d’Aubusson at the terrace of the inner courtyard of this palace.  

Although the premises still called the “Admiralty”, a series of recent findings seem to overturn such original assumption, suggesting instead that the building had been the residence of the Greek Orthodox Bishop before the Turkish occupation.  Although spaced in time and nature, restoration works about this building, launched already at the time of the Italian rule, continue to this day whereas certain areas within the construction are used as storage rooms for parts of the island’s History Archive.

The north side of “Ippokratous Square”.

The "Admiralty" (on the left of the picture).

Continue west, on Aristotelous street, for a couple of blocks and you find yourself in what is most probably the prettiest and most spectacular square of the Old Town: “Ippokratous Square”. 

In the center of the square stands an ornamental fountain with a characteristic sculpture of an owl on the top of it. 

Ippokratous Square is one of the busiest and much photographed spots in the Medieval Town and a reference point for both visitors and locals, who entertain themselves in the abundance of its restaurants, cafes, bars and other shops.

The fountain along with a grand staircase at the east side of the square, is the only remaining evidence of the "Castellania", an important building constructed by the Knights in the 14th c. as a commercial center. The ground floor was used for transactions between traders, and the upper floor for the court where their disputes were tried. Later, the building converted by the Turks into a fish market, with a mosque on the upper floor. 

Just opposite Castellania stands the “Chadrevan Cami” mosque ("Fountain Mosque"). 

Castellania Library (The central Public Library).

To the south of Ippokratous square, Pythagoras str. leads off to “Ibrahim Pasha Cami” mosque. 

Located right at Sofokleous square, among restaurants, tavernas and cafes, the “Ibrahim Pasha Cami” continues to function to this day. 

The fountain (bottom left) and the entrance (bottom) of “Ibrahim Pasha Cami”.

Marine Gate leads you from the walled city out to Kolona harbor.

On the front side of the Gate there are featured in relief the effigies of the Virgin holding the Holy Infant, St. John the Baptist and St. Peter. Also featured are the coats of arms of France, of the Order of St. John as well as the blazon of the House of d’Aubusson. Moreover, a heavily worn inscription may still be seen, acknowledging Grand Master d’Aubusson for the commissioning of this Gate, in 1478. On the inner side of the Gate there may be seen yet another inscription and the effigy of an Angel brandishing the coats of arms of the Order as well as of the House of d’Aubusson.

The interior of the towers is structured in three levels of vaulted halls. There are two halls of different sizes on the lower level, two hexagonal halls on the middle level and two rectangular halls on the third level of each tower. On top of each one of such towers there used to stand the defense module, featuring a sequence of machicolations (devices through which burning oil used to pour down to the assailants at the level of the Gate), providing coverage for both the outer and the inner side of the Gate. During the Italian rule, the entire port structure developed by the Ottomans was eliminated.💔

The grand staircase of Castellania.

The "Castellania Library" (today, The central Public Library), which is a treasure trove of ancient books and documents is housed in Epavlis Mansion (at the beginning of Aristotelous street) and features a music department and exhibition space along with the library tomes.

It is also at Ippokratous Square that Sokratous Street, one of the most popular commercial streets on the island, begins.

“Ibrahim Pasha Cami”.

❤The inscription featured above the mosque's main entrance bears witness to the date of its construction in 1540, which makes it one of the earliest Muslim monuments in the Medieval Town of Rhodos. “This new and handsome mosque, on Hejaz street, was commissioned by Sultan Suleiman, son of Sultan Selim the Victor. May God protect him from all evil. May all those entering the site be safe. Hegira year 947”.

 Two porches, succeeded by a 12 square meters hall constitute the area of worship. The building’s interior, austere and unpretentious in its decoration, contrasts the general trend for flamboyance of Muslim monuments, hence its approximation to the style adopted for “Reçep Pasha Mosque” (the latter being, nevertheless, off limits to visitors of the Medieval City). The minaret had over the centuries suffered serious decay, until the ‘30s, where restoration works were commissioned under the Italian rule.💔

Turn back at Ippokratous Square and, after walking a few meters north, get out of the Old Town via the "Marine Gate" ("Harbor Gate"), which is flanked by two tall cylindrical bastions.

This Gate is perhaps the most spectacular of all the gates to the castle, and that’s not a surprise: this gate is what the visitors (coming from the sea) would firstly see arriving at the Harbor, and they should be impressed and overwhelmed by its splendor.

As can be seen from engravings of past centuries, the sea used to run up to a point directly beneath the gate.

❤ Marine Gate was constructed in 1478, under the auspices of Grand Master Pierre d’ Aubusson, in what is a series of deliberate resemblances to the main Gate to the town of Villeneuve- lès-Avignon, built two centuries earlier.

The exterior of the Marine Gate.

Virgin holding the Holy Infant, St. John the Baptist and St. Peter on the front side of the Marine Gate.

The Fishing harbor (Kolona).

The "Saint Paul Gate".

The last day on the island we decided to take it easy.  We did lots of walking the previous two days and we needed some relax. 

So, we decided to visit two places outside the town:  the "Acropolis of Rhodos" (which is actually in the Town of Rhodos) and "Kalithea Springs". 

For both little escapes we used a taxi. There were buses available, but since it was winter and New Year’s Eve, buses did not run often. 

The Acropolis of Rhodos

The Acropolis of Rhodos is located just west of the Old Town and only 3 kilometers from the center of New Town and our hotel. 

The taxi took us at the west part of the archeological site, which is the highest point of the area, for 4 euros.  The idea was to start walking through the archeological site from the highest point to its lower part and continue walking towards the city. 

Bucolic landscape at Monte Smith.

The view from the highest point of the Acropolis of Rhodos towards the sea.

The original excavation was carried on by the Italian School of Archaeology from 1912-1945.

Following WWII, the Greek Archaeological Service took over excavation and restoration of the ruins. This included extensive reconstruction of the Temple of Pythian Apollo, which was extensively damaged by bombing and artillery installed there during the WWII. Excavation began in 1946 and continues today in the acropolis archaeological park, which covers 12,500 square meters, and is protected from any new construction. 

The "Temple of Pythian Apollo".

The Acropolis is situated on the highest part of the city. The monuments were built on stepped terraces, with substantial retaining walls. The first monument you see when you arrive at the western part of the park is the "Temple of Pythian Apollo". It is a poros peripteral orientated E-W temple.

Part of the NE side has been restored: four columns and part of the architrave.  Unfortunately there is a lot of scaffolding around it, which prevents you from admiring it. 

The "Odeon".

South of the Stoa stretches the "Stadium". Located on the southeast side of the hill, the impressive 210-metre north-south Stadium was initially restored by the Italians.  Its surviving features include the sphendone (rounded end with turning post), proedries (officials' seats), and some of the lower seats in the auditorium (spectators seating). The starting mechanism used in the athletic events has also been preserved. Athletic events of the Heleion Games, honoring Helios, were held here.

The stadium.

The fountain at the entrance of "Kallithea Springs".

The thermal springs of Kallithea, were well known since the Ancient Greece times for the beneficial properties of their waters springing up from the surrounding rocks. Crowds of visitors were coming to the area and they were even setting up camps in the surrounding area, so as to be close to the springs.

The small Rotunda of the Springs.

During the Italian occupation of the island of Rhodos, at the early 20th century the political governor Mario Lago, took the initiative in 1927, to conduct a systematic study of its waters known to the locals as “Tsillonero” after it’s cleansing properties. The survey was conducted by distinguished hydrologists and doctors under the supervision of the famous Gustavo Gasperini. After Gasperini’s death his son Carlo took over his work, along with the person who was later to become the director of the curative springs, Enea Brunetti.

The big Rotunda.

The big Rotunda.

In December 1928 the initial premises were constructed. The work was assigned to the architect Pietro Lombardi whose designs made it one of the best architectural creations of the period.

The premises were inaugurated on 1 July 1929 attracting a large number of patients and scientists from all over the world.

The big Rotunda.

Scene from the film "To Doloma" shot at "Kallithea Springs".

There is a small (and rather neglected) exhibition at the premises, with pictures of films shot in the area and on the island in general, namely “The Guns of Navarone”, “Escape to Athena”, “Pascali’s Island”, etc

Several films were filmed in the area, but the place is known to all Greek cinephiles  for the final scene of the 1964 cult film "To Doloma" (screened abroad with the titles «The bait» or «Aces of Spades») staring Aliki Vougiouklaki, the “national greek” actress. 

The plot is simple: an expert card game hustler, a beautiful woman, and their smooth friend, try to "con" wealthy tourists; but the film gives the Greek diva the opportunity of a grand come back with the favorite studios of the time “Finos Film”.  The film considered provocative for that time, but was a huge commercial success and everyone was crooning the main song of the film: “I like boys” (“Mou aresoun ta agoria”).

The photo exhibition of films shot around Kallithea Springs.